The Dumbest Way to Kill a Chainsaw Chain: Ignoring This Tiny Tab
Your chainsaw is screaming, the engine is revving, but it’s just not biting into the wood. It’s throwing sawdust instead of chips, and the cut is slow, jerky, and frustrating. So, you do what any dedicated DIYer would do: you sharpen the teeth until they’re razor-sharp.
But the problem persists.
In a fit of frustration, you might blame a dull chain and sharpen it again. And again. Until, eventually, your chain is practically new… and it performs worse than ever.
What happened? You just fell for the dumbest trick in the book. You killed your chain by ignoring its most overlooked component: the Raker.
What in the World is a Raker? (A.K.A. The Unsung Hero)
Before we dive into the carnage, let's get acquainted. This little tab in front of each cutting tooth goes by many names:
Raker (The common woodsman's term)
Depth Gauge (Its official, technical name)
Limiter (A name that perfectly describes its job)
Its Function is Simple, Yet Brilliant:
Think of the raker as the pace car for the cutting tooth. The raker’s sole job is to ride in front of the tooth and control how deep it can bite into the wood. It literally limits the depth of the cut.
The Magic Number: The Height Difference
The performance of your chain lives and dies by the precise height difference between the top of the raker and the top of the cutting tooth. This difference determines the chip thickness.
Correct Height: The tooth takes a perfect, thick, curly chip of wood. The chainsaw runs smoothly, pulls itself into the cut, and the engine works under a steady, manageable load.
Raker Too High: The tooth can’t bite deep enough. It just scrapes the surface, producing fine sawdust. The chainsaw bounces, requires you to force it, and cutting is painfully slow.
Raker Too Low: This is where the real danger—and the "dumbest way to kill a chain"—lies.
The Nightmare Scenario: Ground-Down Rakers
So, what happens when you (or an inexperienced sharpener) grind the cutting teeth but forget to carefully file down the rakers to match? The rakers become relatively too high, and the chain stops cutting.
The fatal mistake is then taking a file or grinder and recklessly lowering the rakers too much.
The Risks of Incorrectly Low Rakers:
Violent Kickback: This is the #1 danger. An overly aggressive bite can cause the tip of the bar to dig in and instantly jerk back toward you with incredible force. This is a leading cause of serious chainsaw injuries.
A Savage, Uncontrollable Saw: The chainsaw will bite so deeply that it lurches and jumps through the cut. Instead of you guiding the tool, it starts guiding you—a terrifying and exhausting experience.
Destroying Your Chain & Saw: The extreme stress on the chain can stretch it, break drive links, or damage the bar. It also places a massive, sudden load on your engine and clutch, leading to premature wear or failure.
Worse Performance, Not Better: It seems counterintuitive, but a chain that bites too deep can actually cut slower. The engine bogs down, the vibration is intense, and you get a rough, wavy cut.
You’ve effectively turned a precision cutting tool into a unpredictable, dangerous, and self-destructive weapon.
The Right Way: A Two-Step Sharpening Ritual
A sharp chain is a balanced system. You must care for both the cutting tooth and the raker.
The Tools You Need:
A round file (the correct size for your chain).
A file guide to maintain the correct angle.
A flat file.
A Raker Gauge / Depth Gauge Tool (This is non-negotiable for doing it right!).
Link to the Hipa manual chainsaw sharpener tool kit
The Correct Steps: Sharpen the Cutting Teeth First.
Secure your bar in a vise.
Use your round file and guide to sharpen each tooth at the manufacturer’s specified angle (usually 25°-35°).
Crucially: Use the same number of strokes on each tooth and maintain the same angle to keep them all uniform in length and sharpness.
Then, and ONLY Then, Address the Rakers.
Place your raker gauge over the chain. The "feet" of the gauge will sit on top of the cutting teeth.
The slot in the gauge shows you the exact amount the raker should protrude. Your goal is to file each raker down until it is perfectly flush with the top of the gauge.
Use your flat file to carefully file the raker down. Do not file it at an angle; file it straight and level.
Check Every Raker.
Work your way around the entire chain, ensuring every single raker is set to the same, correct height.
Conclusion: Stop the Madness
Don’t be the person who kills a perfectly good chain through neglect. The few seconds it takes to use a raker gauge are nothing compared to the cost of a new chain, the frustration of a poor-performing saw, or the risk of a life-altering injury.
Embrace the two-step sharpening ritual. Respect the raker. You’ll be rewarded with a chainsaw that cuts smoothly, safely, and efficiently—exactly as it was designed to.
Disclaimer: Always refer to your chainsaw and chain manufacturer's manual for specific sharpening angles and safety instructions. Always wear appropriate safety gear when operating or maintaining a chainsaw.
